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D&G中国大秀取消的第21天,许多账仍未结清_高鹰生殖中心

来源: 新华社
08:06:10

21时女主播qvodD&G中国大秀取消的第21天,许多账仍未结清

kurt wild

    大秀次日,Dolce & Gabbana大秀标志开始拆除。图片来源:视觉中国11月21日,意大利奢侈品牌Dolce & Gabbana因创始人Stefano Gabbana言论疑似辱华,在中国引起了极大的负面舆论,原定于当日晚间举办的品牌上海大秀因此取消。事后,近十家中国头部电商纷纷下架Dolce & Gabbana,全球最大奢侈品电商平台Yoox Net-A-Porter,以及时装百货连卡佛亦跟进了撤货动作。三周过去了,中国社交媒体上对此事的讨论并未完全消失,舆论在海外也继续发酵。12月8日,Dolce & Gabbana高级定制系列Alta Moda照原计划在意大利老家发布新品。此前,本因“辱华”事件停更的品牌社交媒体账号又活跃了起来。账号一天几十条的更新频率大有刷屏将过去翻篇的意味。这引发了一部分观者的不满。该场秀后,Vogue International时尚评论人Suzy Menkes撰写的相关秀评则进一步激发了负面情绪。Menkes在秀评中明确提到她不认为引起争议的“用筷子吃披萨”广告有种族歧视嫌疑,而且在表述中将中国写作颇有殖民时代欧洲中心论色彩的“远东”。目前,Menkes已发表致歉声明。各路观点凶猛交战之时,被“遗弃”的上海大秀反而很少再被提起。事实上,整场秀并未真正结束。收尾工作还在进行,其中最重要的部分就是与中国多个合作方账务清算与结款。界面新闻从知情人处了解到,当天秀场舞台搭建方川力APAX的搭建费用约为800万元人民币。不过,川力方面拒绝回应关于相关费用及尾款结算的问题。另一笔不小的开支来自人工费用。大秀合作的中国模特经纪公司有数家,与品牌方签署大秀合约的模特数量上百,妆发团队亦有数个。加上如安保团队、杂技演员、舞蹈演员等工作人员,整场秀需要支付人工费用的人数破千。以最重要的模特群体来说,广州星力、东方宾利、龙腾精英和火石等中国知名模特经纪公司均有为该场秀提供模特支持,参与模特最多的经纪公司甚至有近80人。但据界面新闻多方了解得知,目前他们与Dolce & Gabbana的合同履行状态都陷入了停滞。大秀次日,施工队开始拆除现场设施。(图片来源:视觉中国)大秀次日,施工队开始拆除现场设施。(图片来源:视觉中国)通常,供应商与品牌方签订合同,都会商定占总金额一定比例的款项作为项目预付款。预付款在项目开始前支付作为定金,尾款则在项目结束后付清。预付款的具体占比没有“行规”限制,各家公司都有不同策略。至于何时支付、支付与否,则与各家合同推进流程的快慢有关。与Dolce & Gabbana这样的国际品牌合作,签订合同等流程往往牵扯与海外总部反复确认的环节,因此整个流程耗时一般较久,且不可控因素多。至于尾款,有从业多年的模特曾向界面记者透露,尾款迟迟不交付的情况在模特行业实属常见,结清款项的时间短则几月,长的甚至可以拖到一年。这次的情况好像也没什么不同,但规模之盛大、当天临时取消、甲方品牌疑似辱华等因素的确增加了事件的特殊性。刘洁浩是一位模特经纪人,他所在的模特经纪公司也与Dolce & Gabbana上海大秀签署了合约。他回顾从最初与品牌方接触,到现在大秀已取消21天,表示这本该是场耗尽心力完成的盛宴,却没成想落得一地鸡毛,至今没能妥帖收场的局面。以下为来自刘洁浩的口述。他向界面新闻讲述了从提前许久开始接洽准备,到当天大秀临时被叫停,再到大秀取消21天时后续事宜仍悬而未决等一系列过程中,他的所见、所闻、所想。大秀那天,事情发展到了那个地步,确实严重了。如果真的继续办下去,谁也说不准,是否会发生安全问题。但早几个钟头的时候,还没人会这么想。还记得大概是早上11点,我看到Gabbana这事儿已经在网上传开了。因为他本人平时说话就挺毒,所以我根本没往“假的”那方面想。当时还跟朋友开玩笑说,“唯一能稍微挽回一点局面的办法就是说账号被盗了。”没想到,不到一个小时,他真的说是账号被盗了。可这招也太低级了啊,根本救不了他。很快,关注这事儿的人越来越多。舆论达到峰值的时候,我认识的一些晚上受邀去看秀的朋友有点慌了,大家这才开始讨论到底要不要去。我也有晚上大秀的邀请函。当时心里想着,没办法,必须得去看一看,因为要保证我的模特们不会出现什么安全隐患。而且我们毕竟是和Dolce & Gabbana国内团队对接的,又不是Gabbana本人,所以如果秀不取消,模特经纪公司作为乙方,肯定还是要尽量配合。这时候的秀场应该还忙得热火朝天。我了解的是,秀前一晚排练完后,大秀当天早上所有部门还需要进行大联排。大秀当日后台。(图片来源:视觉中国)模特走秀线路规划图。(图片来源:Vice)秀场里的人知道了这事之后,无论是Dolce & Gabbana品牌方的人,还是其他人,全都懵了。没人知道这是谣言还是炒作。有人质疑是炒作吗,甚至Dolce & Gabbana团队的人都说要去核实一下,让大家先冷静。这之后开始陆续有中国模特提出想退场,应该是意识到了题的严重性,一方面是辱华言论无法被包容,另一方面涉及到晚上演出的安全性问题。面对这个情况,Dolce & Gabbana的工作人员站出来对模特们说,接受大家的选择,但如果想走的话,需要登记一下。我想,他们应该是想记录人数和被空出来的服装,方便快点找到替补模特。如果当晚大秀不取消,摆在Dolce & Gabbana面前的只有两条路:要么找外国模特补全空位,要么让留下来的模特多穿几套服装、多走几次。结果还是取消了。Dolce & Gabbana宣布大秀取消后,留在舞台上的模特。(图片来源:视觉中国)Dolce & Gabbana宣布大秀取消后,后台仍有工作人员。(图片来源:视觉中国)许多模特在微博称拒绝参与大秀,并发布写有“NOT ME”的试装照片。(图片来源:FashionModel's)说实话,这么大规模的一场秀,如果成功举办,影响力真的会很大,很可能被载入大秀历史。后来也有一些秀场的舞台装置、特别复杂的模特台步路线图这些内容被爆出来,从这些地方都能看出来这场秀对品牌的重要性。作为模特经纪公司,在合作过程中,我们很早就能看出Dolce & Gabbana对这场秀的重视程度。听说距离大秀半年多前,Dolce & Gabbana意大利总部开始陆续和许多模特经纪公司沟通合作,我们也接到了邀约。这次大秀对模特的需求量很大,他们提出要360个模特,除去60位KOL和明星,可能会再需要150个中国模特和150个外国模特,男模、女模对半分,大概是这样一个比例。几乎每个模特经纪公司都有很多人去面试,我们公司几乎也是倾巢出动。筛选模特的流程在北京和上海分别进行,是在距离大秀不到一个月的时候,北京比上海晚一点。虽然设计师本人没有出现,但品牌直接从米兰总部派了国外的选角导演负责。海外来的模特数量不多,但是水平都还不错。每天,面试都能从早上10点一直面到晚上7点,场地比较小,但源源不断地有模特进来。人越来越多,进度却不快,很多模特要等几个小时才能轮到面试。可能是模特太多了,后来的试装持续了好几天。这期间,Dolce和Gabbana也都到场了。试装后,他们还会对服装进行修改。大秀筹备到这个地步,对于模特们来说,费用已经不是最关键的问题了。有很多模特是第一次走国际品牌的秀,或者是第一次参与几百人的大秀。往年Dolce & Gabbana香港、日本、北京的大秀都只是100多个模特的规模。本来这该是一件很有纪念意义的事情。所以模特们其实挺难受、挺惋惜的。相信如果能走,哪怕是客户说预算不够,模特也会愿意接。Dolce & Gabbana宣布大秀取消后,后台仍有工作人员。(图片来源:视觉中国)Dolce & Gabbana宣布大秀取消后,后台仍有工作人员。(图片来源:视觉中国)一般来说,我们和品牌方会提前签署合约。一些客户选择直接跟模特经纪公司签,另一些会通过第三方来完成合同签署的步骤。款项则会分成预付款和尾款两部分来支付。现在我们和Dolce & Gabbana方面还在沟通。品牌方说会给出相应的费用补偿,让我们再等等消息,等他们把该处理的事情处理一下,就一定会付钱。不过,分几次付、什么时候付,都还没有确认的信息。合约履行过程中出现特殊情况,我们一般都会秉着友好协商的态度来商议解决。但赔款方面,我们会有自己的诉求,毕竟大秀不是因为天气这种不可抗力原因取消的,而是甲方出现了问题。*注:应受访者要求,文中出现的姓名为化名。

da xiu ci ri, Dolce amp Gabbana da xiu biao zhi kai shi chai chu. tu pian lai yuan: shi jue zhong guo 11 yue 21 ri, yi da li she chi pin pai Dolce amp Gabbana yin chuang shi ren Stefano Gabbana yan lun yi si ru hua, zai zhong guo yin qi le ji da de fu mian yu lun, yuan ding yu dang ri wan jian ju ban de pin pai shang hai da xiu yin ci qu xiao. shi hou, jin shi jia zhong guo tou bu dian shang fen fen xia jia Dolce amp Gabbana, quan qiu zui da she chi pin dian shang ping tai Yoox NetAPorter, yi ji shi zhuang bai huo lian ka fu yi gen jin le che huo dong zuo. san zhou guo qu le, zhong guo she jiao mei ti shang dui ci shi de tao lun bing wei wan quan xiao shi, yu lun zai hai wai ye ji xu fa jiao. 12 yue 8 ri, Dolce amp Gabbana gao ji ding zhi xi lie Alta Moda zhao yuan ji hua zai yi da li lao jia fa bu xin pin. ci qian, ben yin" ru hua" shi jian ting geng de pin pai she jiao mei ti zhang hao you huo yue le qi lai. zhang hao yi tian ji shi tiao de geng xin pin lv da you shua ping jiang guo qu fan pian de yi wei. zhe yin fa le yi bu fen guan zhe de bu man. gai chang xiu hou, Vogue International shi shang ping lun ren Suzy Menkes zhuan xie de xiang guan xiu ping ze jin yi bu ji fa le fu mian qing xu. Menkes zai xiu ping zhong ming que ti dao ta bu ren wei yin qi zheng yi de" yong kuai zi chi pi sa" guang gao you zhong zu qi shi xian yi, er qie zai biao shu zhong jiang zhong guo xie zuo po you zhi min shi dai ou zhou zhong xin lun se cai de" yuan dong". mu qian, Menkes yi fa biao zhi qian sheng ming. ge lu guan dian xiong meng jiao zhan zhi shi, bei" yi qi" de shang hai da xiu fan er hen shao zai bei ti qi. shi shi shang, zheng chang xiu bing wei zhen zheng jie shu. shou wei gong zuo hai zai jin xing, qi zhong zui zhong yao de bu fen jiu shi yu zhong guo duo ge he zuo fang zhang wu qing suan yu jie kuan. jie mian xin wen cong zhi qing ren chu liao jie dao, dang tian xiu chang wu tai da jian fang chuan li APAX de da jian fei yong yue wei 800 wan yuan ren min bi. bu guo, chuan li fang mian ju jue hui ying guan yu xiang guan fei yong ji wei kuan jie suan de wen ti. ling yi bi bu xiao de kai zhi lai zi ren gong fei yong. da xiu he zuo de zhong guo mo te jing ji gong si you shu jia, yu pin pai fang qian shu da xiu he yue de mo te shu liang shang bai, zhuang fa tuan dui yi you shu ge. jia shang ru an bao tuan dui za ji yan yuan wu dao yan yuan deng gong zuo ren yuan, zheng chang xiu xu yao zhi fu ren gong fei yong de ren shu po qian. yi zui zhong yao de mo te qun ti lai shuo, guang zhou xing li dong fang bin li long teng jing ying he huo shi deng zhong guo zhi ming mo te jing ji gong si jun you wei gai chang xiu ti gong mo te zhi chi, can yu mo te zui duo de jing ji gong si shen zhi you jin 80 ren. dan ju jie mian xin wen duo fang liao jie de zhi, mu qian ta men yu Dolce amp Gabbana de he tong lv xing zhuang tai dou xian ru le ting zhi. da xiu ci ri, shi gong dui kai shi chai chu xian chang she shi. tu pian lai yuan: shi jue zhong guo da xiu ci ri, shi gong dui kai shi chai chu xian chang she shi. tu pian lai yuan: shi jue zhong guo tong chang, gong ying shang yu pin pai fang qian ding he tong, dou hui shang ding zhan zong jin e yi ding bi li de kuan xiang zuo wei xiang mu yu fu kuan. yu fu kuan zai xiang mu kai shi qian zhi fu zuo wei ding jin, wei kuan ze zai xiang mu jie shu hou fu qing. yu fu kuan de ju ti zhan bi mei you" hang gui" xian zhi, ge jia gong si dou you bu tong ce lue. zhi yu he shi zhi fu zhi fu yu fou, ze yu ge jia he tong tui jin liu cheng de kuai man you guan. yu Dolce amp Gabbana zhe yang de guo ji pin pai he zuo, qian ding he tong deng liu cheng wang wang qian che yu hai wai zong bu fan fu que ren de huan jie, yin ci zheng ge liu cheng hao shi yi ban jiao jiu, qie bu ke kong yin su duo. zhi yu wei kuan, you cong ye duo nian de mo te ceng xiang jie mian ji zhe tou lu, wei kuan chi chi bu jiao fu de qing kuang zai mo te hang ye shi shu chang jian, jie qing kuan xiang de shi jian duan ze ji yue, zhang de shen zhi ke yi tuo dao yi nian. zhe ci de qing kuang hao xiang ye mei shen me bu tong, dan gui mo zhi sheng da dang tian lin shi qu xiao jia fang pin pai yi si ru hua deng yin su di que zeng jia liao shi jian de te shu xing. liu jie hao shi yi wei mo te jing ji ren, ta suo zai de mo te jing ji gong si ye yu Dolce amp Gabbana shang hai da xiu qian shu le he yue. ta hui gu cong zui chu yu pin pai fang jie chu, dao xian zai da xiu yi qu xiao 21 tian, biao shi zhe ben gai shi chang hao jin xin li wan cheng de sheng yan, que mei cheng xiang luo de yi di ji mao, zhi jin mei neng tuo tie shou chang de ju mian. yi xia wei lai zi liu jie hao de kou shu. ta xiang jie mian xin wen jiang shu le cong ti qian xu jiu kai shi jie qia zhun bei, dao dang tian da xiu lin shi bei jiao ting, zai dao da xiu qu xiao 21 tian shi hou xu shi yi reng xuan er wei jue deng yi xi lie guo cheng zhong, ta de suo jian suo wen suo xiang. da xiu na tian, shi qing fa zhan dao le na ge di bu, que shi yan zhong le. ru guo zhen de ji xu ban xia qu, shui ye shuo bu zhun, shi fou hui fa sheng an quan wen ti. dan zao ji ge zhong tou de shi hou, hai mei ren hui zhe me xiang. hai ji de da gai shi zao shang 11 dian, wo kan dao Gabbana zhe shi er yi jing zai wang shang chuan kai le. yin wei ta ben ren ping shi shuo hua jiu ting du, suo yi wo gen ben mei wang" jia de" na fang mian xiang. dang shi hai gen peng you kai wan xiao shuo," wei yi neng shao wei wan hui yi dian ju mian di ban fa jiu shi shuo zhang hao bei dao le." mei xiang dao, bu dao yi ge xiao shi, ta zhen de shuo shi zhang hao bei dao le. ke zhe zhao ye tai di ji le a, gen ben jiu bu liao ta. hen kuai, guan zhu zhe shi er de ren yue lai yue duo. yu lun da dao feng zhi de shi hou, wo ren shi de yi xie wan shang shou yao qu kan xiu de peng you you dian huang le, da jia zhe cai kai shi tao lun dao di yao bu yao qu. wo ye you wan shang da xiu de yao qing han. dang shi xin li xiang zhe, mei ban fa, bi xu de qu kan yi kan, yin wei yao bao zheng wo de mo te men bu hui chu xian shen me an quan yin huan. er qie wo men bi jing shi he Dolce amp Gabbana guo nei tuan dui dui jie de, you bu shi Gabbana ben ren, suo yi ru guo xiu bu qu xiao, mo te jing ji gong si zuo wei yi fang, ken ding hai shi yao jin liang pei he. zhe shi hou de xiu chang ying gai hai mang de re huo chao tian. wo liao jie de shi, xiu qian yi wan pai lian wan hou, da xiu dang tian zao shang suo you bu men hai xu yao jin xing da lian pai. da xiu dang ri hou tai. tu pian lai yuan: shi jue zhong guo mo te zou xiu xian lu gui hua tu. tu pian lai yuan: Vice xiu chang li de ren zhi dao le zhe shi zhi hou, wu lun shi Dolce amp Gabbana pin pai fang de ren, hai shi qi ta ren, quan dou meng le. mei ren zhi dao zhe shi yao yan hai shi chao zuo. you ren zhi yi shi chao zuo ma, shen zhi Dolce amp Gabbana tuan dui de ren dou shuo yao qu he shi yi xia, rang da jia xian leng jing. zhe zhi hou kai shi lu xu you zhong guo mo te ti chu xiang tui chang, ying gai shi yi shi dao le ti de yan zhong xing, yi fang mian shi ru hua yan lun wu fa bei bao rong, ling yi fang mian she ji dao wan shang yan chu de an quan xing wen ti. mian dui zhe ge qing kuang, Dolce amp Gabbana de gong zuo ren yuan zhan chu lai dui mo te men shuo, jie shou da jia de xuan ze, dan ru guo xiang zou de hua, xu yao deng ji yi xia. wo xiang, ta men ying gai shi xiang ji lu ren shu he bei kong chu lai de fu zhuang, fang bian kuai dian zhao dao ti bu mo te. ru guo dang wan da xiu bu qu xiao, bai zai Dolce amp Gabbana mian qian de zhi you liang tiao lu: yao me zhao wai guo mo te bu quan kong wei, yao me rang liu xia lai de mo te duo chuan ji tao fu zhuang duo zou ji ci. jie guo hai shi qu xiao le. 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